How to put together a wardrobe?
Congrats on surviving high school, college, [insert phase of life here] without accumulating too many emotional scars. So let's try to survive the next phase in style! Or at least make sure you age better than those baggy jeans in high school. Here's my life lesson learned.
(Apparently, I am basically describing "capsule wardrobe". Thanks Emily for introducing me to the term/concept.)
How to shop (smart)
tl;dr;
- buy things that fit you well (size and style)
- buy it for life
Quality Over Quantity
You don't need a lot of clothes, what you need is a few versatile pieces. Once you have them, those few key pieces will give you many combinations.
I also have a prototypical view on things: this is what blah should look like. This helps me reduce the clutter. For example, I get the one watch that I think embodies what I think watches should be. It's the perfect watch for me. Since I won't get another watch, I don't mind spluring on this. When it breaks, I try to get the exact same one.
Timeless Over Trendy
You also don't want to replace your wardrobe because it was so 90s, 00s, [insert time period here]. In fact, fashion recycles things all the time, and some things never go out of style. Think aviator sunglasses, trench coats, topcoats, oxford shoes, etc. These are the things you could splurge on because you know you will wear them for years if you take good care of them.
Few Over Deals
I used to go to outlets because they have good deals. Now I rarely go because the things I like typically don't go on sale (they are timeless and they can always sell them next year at full price). It's only a deal if you use it, otherwise it's discounted garbage. Conversely, if I'm willing to pay full price, and I wait a month and I still want it, now I know for sure it's something I'll keep for a long time. Instead, now I look for discounts and sale events to buy the few items that I really want, not the other way around. Shop with purpose.
The Essentials
You wear these essentials daily. Make sure you have enough to last you until the next laundry day. Since I do laundry weekly, I have at least 8.
(Under) Shirts
A gray t-shirt is my staple. You could go with white or black too. These go with EVERYTHING. I'm personally a crew neck guy, a more classic option. But v-necks are cool too as long as they are not too deep.
Micro Modal
As for material, I go with micro modal, which emulates the softness of silk among other benefits. It's touted as an eco-friendly fabric, but I've also read that they used too much water and trees. *shrug*, use your own judgement.
Underwear
I went from tighty-whities (briefs) as a kid, to boxers as a teenager, and finally arrived at boxer-briefs. They really are the best of both worlds. Again, buy micromodal. Go nuts on colors if you like. I used to get the SAXX Platinums, but now go with David Archy because it's a lot more economical. The material would pill after 12-18 months anyway.
For traveling, I used to get merino wool because wool is naturally antibacterial. However, they are not as durable as synthetics and they start developing holes. Now I get the SAXX Quest, named "the ultimate travel underwear" by National Geographic.
Socks
I buy multiple pairs of the exact same socks. This way, I don't need to sort them when folding laundry. 4 pairs in white, 4 pairs in black. Splurge on wool, they wick moisture a lot better, and are more durable. I get the Darn Tough socks, which has a lifetime warranty. But I buy socks every 3 years or so during holidays because I want them to stay in business.
The Staples
These are the staple pieces in your wardrobe. They are super versatile, and are meant to mix and match with each other really well. Imagine the combinations: everything in your closet goes well with everything!
Jeans
This is easy, get one in indigo (dark blue). If you want a second pair, get black. I am particularly fond of Japanese selvedge denim. A pair of good ol' American Levi's is also hard to beat.
Dress Shirts
If you ever visit Asia, you can find tailors that can turn around made-to-measure shirts around 3-5 days for the same price as off-the-rack shirts in the US. Look in styleforum.net for recommendations.
If not, find a brand that fits you well and stick with them. Get them tailored if needed, but then it gets kind of pricey...
Start with two solids: white and light blue. They go with everything and I consider them must haves. Then expand into other patterns. I have around 6 shirts, but had more when I had to wear them to work everyday.
Graphic Tees
I have a few of these, less than 6. They are cheap and fun. Although I end up wearing the essential gray tees a lot.
Knits
Have 2-4 sweaters. You could find affordable cashmere sweaters nowadays. I like the ones at Italic a lot, but they require a membership now (dumb). I am also surprised to find the Uniqlo ones to be softer than the Everlane ones.
I am also a big fan of the Patagonia Midweight Capilene shirts. I get them in gray, so they don't look like camping clothes.
Suits
The most important thing is: your suit needs to fit. Again, find a tailor in Asia if you can. If not, make sure you have your suit tailored. Tailors can't work wonders, they mostly can take in the sides and length of sleeves/inseam. Make sure a off-the-rack suit fits your shoulders. Otherwise it's unsalvageable.
I'm going to save you some time and tell you what style of suit to get: single-breasted, 2 buttons, in navy blue. Charcoal gray is also acceptable. Black is a distant third, unless you work as a waiter or at a funeral parlor.
The color of your suit also must match the color of your shoes. Now you can see why navy blue and charcoal grey are your go-to colors; they are so versatile. Black suits only goes with black shoes.
Jackets
Most (if not all) timeless men's jackets are inspired from the military: trench coats, top coats, pea coats, bomber jacket, field jacket, parkas, just to name a few. So start with those.
I like to have 5:
- Casual Fall/Spring: Field Jacket
- Dressy Fall/Spring: Trench Coat
- Casual Winter: Duffel Coat
- Dressy Winter: Top Coat
- Leather Jacket
Feel free to splurge on these, these can last you a decade.
Shoes
You need at least 3 pairs; a fourth if you live somewhere cold:
- Dress shoes (Cap-toe or whole cut oxfords. Black if you didn't listen and got a black suit. Otherwise you can have your pick in color.)
- Casual shoes (Spoiler alert: white sneakers go with everything. There's a reason why you see Adidas Stan Smiths or Superstars everywhere.)
- Sneakers (I'm a huge fan of the Nike Free RN Flyknits even though everyone is crazy for Ultraboosts. The Flyknits are soooooo light!)
- Snow boots (My pair of Vasque hiking boots doubles as snow boots.)
You can also splurge on dress shoes. Add some Vibram rubber heel and half sole to protect the leather soles, and shine your shoes regularly. Leather, like your skin, needs moisturizers. They will last you a long time if you take good care of them.